Nosara to spectacular Samara

I am writing this entry with a heavy heart. Today we make the journey back to Alajuela, from where we will be flying tomorrow afternoon. Right in front of my feet is the black metal fence marking the boundary of the Samara Treehouse Inn, through which I can see the fine sand of the beach (literally - the thin bars of the fence are all that separates my sun lounger from arguably the most beautiful beach in Costa Rica) a row of coconut palms, the expanse of the beach (it's low tide) and the surf. I don't believe in a heaven, but if I did I would hope that it looked something like this.

The day before yesterday we left Lagarta Lodge, with it's monkeys and scorpions, and drove to Nosara village to have an ice-cream at Robyn's (yummy!) before driving the 50 minutes of dusty, bumpy road to Samara. Compared to some of the drives we've had to do this was a breeze and we arrived at the Samara Tree House Inn at 12:30pm. It wasn't easy to find though! They need a big sign out front because we drove straight past it and had to ask directions in the end.

This place is fantastic. We have our very own treehouse! There's a bedroom with double bed, a bathroom with funky blue tiles, a kitchenette and a sitting area that looks straight out onto the beach. Plus two TVs and WiFi throughout. Under the treehouse are two hammocks, two sunloungers, a sink, a BBQ and a table and chairs where you are served breakfast every morning. Not bad at all!

The only weakness is that the staff could be a lot more friendly. After receiving such amazing service in all our other hotels, it's a shame that they make you feel like they're doing you a favour.

We had lunch at Sheriff Rustic - awesome cheap casados - and then walk down the entire beach in search of Villas Kunterbunt, where we had stayed before. We didn't manage to locate it, but it's definitely still here somewhere. The beach is long, so we were pretty exhausted when we got back. I tried to do some body boarding but the surf here is worlds apart from the surf in Playa Grande.

We had dinner at the best Italian in town: El Dorado. Fantastic pizzas.

Yesterday we had more of a plan. At 7am we hired a two-man kayak and paddled to Isla Chora, an offshore island that I foolishly swam to last time we were here. It's half an hour by kayak. When we got there it was just us, the hermit crabs, the frigate birds, a few iguanas and the odd pelican. All very romantic until I noticed that the large group of vultures were tucking into the remains of a baby dolphin a few metres from our landing spot!

The hermit crabs were so busy! It was like watching a busy city from the sky as they zoomed around the beach.

After about an hour we returned to the treehouse and went to take some photos along the beach. Then we drove past Plata Carillo to an amazing secluded beach with turquoise water and impressive spray from the huge waves. It's a natural swimming pool at low tide, but I think we saw it at it's best.

After we got back I bought some fresh ceviche from a guy at the side of the road. It was so fresh. Lunch was a pretty basic affair and afterwards we did some emailing, had a glass of wine, hung out (literally) in the hammocks and got ready for dinner.

The Lonely Planet recommends Casa Esmeralda and for good reason. We are very well and I finally got to eat a whole grilled fish.

Everything was as it should be until Amber was on her way into the bathroom to brush her teeth and let out a blood curdling scream.

Massive...cockroach...in...bathroom.

Damn. I hate cockroaches. Why? Because they move so flippin' fast.

Cue me scrambling around on my hands and knees in the tiny sweltering bathroom trying to catch the bugger so I can throw him out the window. Not fun. Not fun at all. I got him in the end though and we could both sleep untroubled by the fear of waking up with giant bugs crawling all over us.

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